La Junta

The Carretera Austral is a 770-mile longitudinal road that was created beginning in 1976 by the Chilean military. The area from the Argentine border to the sea is seldom more than 100 miles and has been populated by a few hardy settlers who relied on reaching the outside world by horse or by boat until the Carretera was built. At times an environmental disaster that blasted through mountains and forests, it has since provided the means for more people to settle and create new towns. These people depend on raising livestock in the interior and on fishing and extraction of shellfish and seaweed along the uneven and extensive coastline. But the greatest economic boon has been tourism. Despite the fact that most of the road is a one-track gravel road, many people brave the challenges of travel by vehicle and bicycle. I previously posted photos in 2002 (Click here) and 2007 (Click here).

This year, after spending three weeks on the island of Chiloé, I traveled south by ship to the coastal village of Raúl Marín Balmaceda (previous post). After several lovely peaceful days I came inland to the Carretera Austral, stopping in the town of La Junta.

The 47 miles of gravel road follows the Palena River and takes about two hours by van with a bad rear axle.

The sky varied from torrential rains to glorious sunshine as we passed by impressive waterfalls large and small.

Having eaten only fish and shellfish for five days, it was obvious that there would now be red meat on the table as we passed by fields of livestock and humble farmhouses.

La Junta (pop. 3,600) means “The Meeting” or “Joining” and is where the Rosselot River joins the Palena in northern Patagonia. The town is a supply center for the surrounding countryside and has the only gas station for many miles north and south. There is phone and Internet service though the nearest ATM machine is about 200 miles away.

I found an upscale lodge (Hotel Espacio y Tiempo) with a well stocked bar and restaurant, one of very few places in Patagonia that accepts credit cards.

Unfortunately, I am reminded that a solo traveler without a vehicle is at the mercy of the occasional van that carries passengers. I had wanted to explore the northern part of the highway, but there is only one opportunity to reach Chaitén where I have a reservation on the Don Baldo north to Puerto Montt. The highway ends there and ship is the only way to continue. The public van leaves Friday morning at 6am.

Without a car there is little to do in La Junta. I’m always happy just walking the road north or south, or along the roads east and west to Lago Verde and Raúl Marín. Fortunately there is a great trail maintained by the national forestry service.







And when the rain becomes heavy, there is the refuge of my lodging where there is always a fire in the wood stove and a good Internet signal.