Chepu, Chiloé, Chile

Home sweet home. This is just about my favorite destination in Chile, “Los Senderos de Chepu,” on the big island of Chiloé. It is by far the best-equipped B&B in Chepu to visit for a few hours or for several days, which is always my choice. The attraction is a gorgeous location in a quiet setting surrounded by gardens, pastures, forest, river and ocean. Rooms are comfortable and with modern conveniences. Outdoor activities abound, including fishing, hiking, horseback riding, visiting penguins, or my favorite, relaxation.

The beautiful garden is full of color year around

Chepu is not a village, but an area located a few miles southeast of Ancud on the island of Chiloé. Several families live here, spread over many miles. There is a bus that serves the area three times per week.

Country church

The locals have modern conveniences and vehicles, but the ox cart is most practical for transporting items on the farm, especially firewood that is needed daily.

The grass is always greener on the other side. I watched as this cow carefully removed his head from the barbed wire.

“Reduce, Recycle, Reuse”

Comanche and Mariachi

In the dunes; Chepu River is in the background

We must cross some wetlands to get to the beach

Don Fernando, my host and guide. Across the river to the south is the Chiloé National Park, on the west coast of the island.

This is our destination, Elephant Rock

Pacific Ocean at Aulen Beach

Lichens at the beach

View from above, near the main house, looking south toward Chiloé National Park

In the forest, I set off on a muddy path down to the river, about 30 minutes away. I brought rubber boots two years ago and leave them at the main house. It’s all I use outdoors. 

Ferns in the forest

The trail ends at the river. Many trees died in 1960 when southern Chile was hit with the largest earthquake ever recorded (Richter 9.5) The epicenter was near Valdivia to the north, but the land in many areas sank several feet, causing the river to widen, drowning trees. This is a great area for fishing and bird watching.

My wonderful hosts during many visits to Chepu in a photo from 2012: Señora Enriqueta, Don Fernando and daughter Vanesa, who is almost finished with her medical studies.

Chepu, Chiloé #2

The next day I joined the two Austrian guests for a 6-hour hike along the coast just south of the river. Don Fernando delivered us by boat to the trailhead. (Click on images to enlarge)

Chepu River

These trees drowned after the land sank as a result of the 1960 earthquake in southern Chile that measured 9 on the Richter scale, the largest earthquake ever recorded.

After one hour of walking I turned around and saw this magnificent view. The day was clear and warm. We have had remarkably wonderful weather these days.

The trail



Our destination was this beach, Playa Huevil. At low tide one can cross to the island in the background. Penguins burrow on the side facing the ocean. The tábanos (horse flies) were so aggressive that I didn’t linger as my companions did. I soon found a spot on high ground where there were few insects to interrupt my lunch. I never did see the penguins. We returned to our point of departure on the Chepu River where don Fernando met us with the outborard boat for the return home.

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Chepu, Chiloé

Los Senderos de Chepu, my B&B in rural Chiloé.

After several days in Santiago (population 5 million), Puerto Montt (pop. 175,000) and Ancud (pop. 50,000), it’s about time to chill out in the country in southern Chile. I found a lovely B&B called Los Senderos de Chepu, 24 miles southwest of Ancud, in the northwest corner of the big island of Chiloé. Los Senderos is run by Señora Enriqueta (Tita) and Don Fernando in Chepu, not a village, but an area where about 50 families live on small farms spread over a large area. The Chepu River snakes its way through the area surrounded by small mountains, and makes its way to the Pacific Ocean about 4 kilometers from the B&B. This is my favorite style of travel in southern Chile.







The ubiquitous potato patch, with the Pacific Ocean in the background.

After breakfast, don Fernando saddles the horses for a 4-hour ride to the ocean beach at the mouth of the Chepu River. The land and seascapes are similar to those in northern California, but on closer inspection there is a unique Chilean look.







Elephant rock on Aulen beach.



My buckskin horse is called Mariachi.

Mouth of Chepu River. It's time to turn back to the farm and have lunch.

More later.