Volcán Apagado (Extinguished Volcano)

I had the good fortune to meet up with Robert from Patagonia El Cobre in Hornopirén. He and his wife Noemi arrived here about 20 years ago to start a family. They purchased some land near town and began to create a destination for tourists, including a campground and botanical park. They and partner Cristián offer tours by land and kayak in the fjords. It's a bit cold and rainy for me this year, so I chose to explore the land where there is an old volcano with a sandy lava cone and crater. It carries the undistinguished name of "Extinguished Volcano".

A lovely road leads us up into the mountains. This is one of the better sections of the road.

Looking west toward Chiloé

We stop to visit a portion of the dense forest. One of our guides, Patricio, is caretaker of this huge property, more than 50,000 acres. He knows the forest well and can explain much of the flora here.

Logging of the ancient alerce trees was big business in decades and centuries in the past. This remarkable species is very much like the coast redwood of California, with a similar bark. A preferred wood for construction and shingles, the alerce is now protected. Only felled trees can be harvested. This tree is only an adolescent at about 1,500 years of age.

Notro or ciruelillo

This is me in front of a nalca plant. It looks like a giant rhubarb, but the flesh of the stem is sweet and juicy. We decided that it tastes somewhat like a mix of celery and cucumber and is eaten raw.

An ancient Russian truck once used in the logging operations here

A few obstacles in the road must be cleared before we continue. At this altitude (3,000 feet?) the mountains are shrouded in a cold mist with little visibility.

This narrow saddle has perpendicular walls. I try not to look down as we pass over.

We leave the vehicles behind and head up the side of the volcano. The lava is like sand. The air is cool and a little windy. This makes the hike easier than if there were sun.

We conquer the top of the volcano. Here I am with Robert and Patricio, our two excellent hosts and guides.

We have our lunch as we contemplate the crater. The younger folks visited the bottom of the crater. Our descent on the lava sand was like skiing, great fun!

Looking down into the crater.

A small forest on the slope of the volcano

The sky clears considerably in the afternoon as we prepare to leave the volcano. This land was once covered in giant, ancient alerce trees. Many houses along this narrow country are constructed with the wood.

The next couple of days are very rainy, with thunder and hail. I am very content with a book in front of a wood stove in my cabin, but I will have to return here another day to see more sights by boat and horse that I couldn't do this trip. Hornopirén is a town with very friendly people. It is typical of the south of Chile in that one feels completely comfortable. And the food at the Mercado Típico is excellent. I am grateful to the people of Hornopirén for their generous hospitality. Tomorrow I return to Puerto Montt and more adventures.

Las Termas (hot springs) de Llancahue

This is a land of volcanoes and hot springs up and down the range of Andes mountains. I took advantage of a couple of dry days to visit Llancahue Island, about 50 minutes by boat from Hornopirén. It's a wonderful setting to rest and enjoy the natural hot springs. First, we board the Miska II in Hornopirén.


Soon we see the hotel and hot springs complex as we approach the wharf on Llancahue Island.


The natural hot springs feed into two pools where the tourists can enjoy spectacular views. The food and service were excellent.



I hiked up the mountain behind the hotel, on a steep and muddy trail that enters the dense forest. What a view! This is looking northwest at various islands and the irregular coast of the mainland.



Coming next: A visit to Quintupeu Fjord, where a German warship hid away in 1915 while making some repairs.

Hornopirén

It's a new year and another trip to my favorite destination, the south of Chile. As usual, the trip begins in Puerto Montt, about 700 miles south of Chile's capital, Santiago. After a good rest of two days, I take the bus south to this lovely town of about 4,000 people. I was here last in 2002 when it was about half the size that it is now. Click here to see photos from that trip. The following are photos from 2010.




Black neck swans near the wharf in Hornopirén


Until about 30 years ago the town was connected to the world only by the sea. It was a major supplier of alerce, the ancient trees that were used for construction, somewhat similar to California redwood. The forest is now protected and there is no more cutting of these trees. This woodwork is on alerce that is cut from the remaining trunks in the forest. This beautiful piece is supported by cypress, and has a volcanic rock inserted in the wood.


Two days per week people come to town to sell their goods at the farmers’ market in the mercado típico, a building provided by the town. They offer mussels, clams, merluza (a typical local fish), and some veggies. There are two small restaurants in the same building. I had a delicious shellfish stew with very fresh ingredients.



This is my little cabaña in Hornopirén


It rains a lot in southern Chile. I knew this would be a wet summer. In this storm I may have to get my feet wet to leave the cabin. I have been keeping the wood stove stoked round the clock. Inside I am warm and dry. But I would rather be hiking or exploring the fjord.



Coming next: a visit to the hot springs at Llancahue Island and Quintupeu Fjord.