Rowing in the Beagle Channel

January 27, 2009 (Mozart's birthday)
Today I joined a group of about 14 tourists for a day tour to the Beagle Channel and Harberton Estancia. We left early from Ushuaia in the Yellow Submarine (bus) for the 90-minute dusty ride to Harberton. Arriving at the Lashifashaj River on the historic estancia property, we unloaded two large rubber canoes and donned wet weather gear and life jackets. We rowed down river to where it meets the Beagle Channel. Here we carried and towed the canoes to the nearby bay and headed into the Channel. Marine birds were numerous, especially the black and white imperial cormorant, some white terns and flightless steamer ducks. Unfortunately my camera was packed in a dry pocket. I was busy rowing into the wind.



Just as the wind became stronger, we landed on the Harberton Peninsula. A large zodiak picked us up and delivered us to the estancia where we had a delicious lunch on the hill above. After lunch we boarded the zodiak once again to visit a couple of islands in the channel.


Martillo Island hosts a large colony of Magellanic penguins and a small colony of gentoo penguins. We were careful to keep a distance, both to protect the birds and to avoid their curious and dangerous beaks. What is the fascination we humans have for these gentle animals?





This nest contains an adult and two almost full sized chicks.


After spending about an hour in the penguin colony we boarded the zodiac for a short ride to Gable Island. This is where the Harberton ranch used to deliver cattle and sheep to graze. It provided a natural way to prevent the animals from roaming. The name Gable was given because there are cliffs which resemble gables on a house.


We took a hike around the island, which consists of many acres. It is a model of the forest on the mainland, and our guide Freddy had a good understanding of the flora. This parasite is found in the magellanic forest throughout the southern continent. It reminds us of mistletoe and comes in a variety of colors from brown to green and yellow.




We soon met our bus on the mainland and returned on the dusty road to Ushuaia. The next day I took a bus north for 90 minutes for a return visit to Lake Fagnano for a bit of a rest from the adventure of the past week. Today (Jan. 29) I walked almost 5 miles to the village of Tolhuin to visit the famous La Unión bakery for treats. The rain discouraged this tired walker and I returned to my lodge on the lake by taxi. Throughout the day the sky changed constantly, from no clouds and bright sun to torrential rains. The sky in Tierra del Fuego is as dramatic as any of the sights on land or sea.

Tomorrow I have a ride north to Río Grande. My visit to Argentine Tierra del Fuego is almost over and I return to Chile and Punta Arenas on the Straits of Magellan in a few days.

Estancia Harberton

January 24-25, 2009
It was exciting to arrive at this historic place by horse over the mountain pass.


According to Natalie Goodall's book, "the first estancia on Tierra del Fuego, Harberton was founded in 1886, by Thomas Bridges and his sons. The land was a gift from President Julio A. Roca and the Argentine Congress to Bridges for his service to the country - thirty years years of work among the Yahgans, rescue of numerous shipwrecks, and help given to the new Subprefecture in Ushuaia. Originally called Down East, the name was changed to Harberton for the town from which Bridges' wife, Mary Varder, had come. Now property of the several grandchildren of Thomas Bridges, the estancia is managed by a great-grandson. Located 40 miles east of Ushuaia, Harberton also claims the oldest house on the Island... The coastline is very broken and undulating, with four large bays... The houses are situated on a long narrow peninsula." (Tierra del Fuego by Natalie Goodall, 1979.) The gravel road to the estancia was made in 1978. Tourists arrive by car and bus and many come from Ushuaia on the daily catamaran. People, not livestock, are the main source of income for the ranch.




Below is the main house, said to be the first house on Tierra del Fuego. I was lodged in a refurbished workers' house but was invited to take my meals with the family here. The house is filled with original furnishings. There was a definite sense of connection to the past. English was the main language, but it was always mixed with Spanish, especially with the younger generations who were at the ranch for the summer weeks. Several university students serve as guides and take turns at the family table. Mealtimes provided a unique experience to share stories and experiences.


Below are farm buildings which are maintained to exhibit original machinery and boats.


Natalie Goodall is a distinguished scholar and scientist. She has created a museum on the property which exhibits Yahgan artifacts and examples of the flora and fauna, including skeletons of marine mammals and birds. All the exhibits were discovered on the estancia. Her husband, Tommy Goodall, is a great-grandson of Thomas Bridges. They were gracious and fascinating hosts. It was a pleasure to share their table.


After breakfast I toured the museum until Natalie called for me in the farm jeep to visit the archeology digs on the ranch. Ernesto Piana is the Argentine expert on Yahgan history. His students were enthusiastic and dedicated to their work, which can only be described as looking for needles in a haystack. They are looking for any signs of any artifacts in the middens that are so common in the area.


As we were talking with Dr. Piana, a student found a stone with chipping marks. Here she is taking measurements.


A second dig was further east, at Cambeceres, where Lucas Bridges had built a structure to stay in while caring for livestock.


From the main house looking southeast to the Beagle Channel through Harberton Bay. Cruise ships and tankers regularly pass by. They are only visible for a few minutes before they are hidden by the mountains. This is a magical place.