Chaitén

This shows about one third of the recovering town of Chaitén, destroyed by a nearby volcano. I arrived at the lookout about 15 minutes too late, as clouds are forming around the distant Corcovado Volcano. What looks like low tide to the right of this picture is ash deposit from the 2008 eruption of the Chaitén Volcano. You can see a little of the edge of the sea, about a quarter mile off the old waterfront. Ash spewed 20 kilometers up in the air and arrived at the Atlantic Ocean, several hundred miles to the east. 

View of the volcano, about four miles east of town, still spewing steam on some days.

The town still has a long way to full recovery. Many condemned houses are still standing. The volcano is in the background.

¡¡Llegó el Gas!! Gas has arrived. This store sells the propane that people need for heating water and for cooking.

Arrival of the Don Baldo from Puerto Montt. Before the eruption, the sea arrived to about where the picture is taken. The ash permanently covers the waterfront.

Preparing to offload large trucks, heavy equipment, cars and passengers. Here is a good view of Corcovado Volcano.

Monday morning at the landing, waiting for the Don Baldo. Colors are vivid at 9:00 am. I waited with others for four hours before it unloaded and uploaded.

We are underway, finally. The town of Chaitén is in the background, and further on, Corcovado Volcano. What looks like beach is accumulated ash from the 2008 eruption.

Chaitén is in a gorgeous setting, nestled under the mountains. After four hours sailing we arrived in Quellón, at the southern terminus of the Panamerican Highway, on the island of Chiloé.

Approaching Quellón on the Chaiguao Channel.

Yelcho Lake, River and Glacier

Yelcho River

One of the most scenic places in southern Chile is the area around Lago Yelcho in central Patagonia. The gravel road was built after 1976 and is just now being widened and paved, a job that will last a few more years. The area draws fly fishermen and other tourists during the season from November to May. The single track gravel road has the grand name of Carretera Austral. Carretera means highway.

This substantial bridge over the Yelcho River was a joint project of the Chilean and German governments.

Yelcho Lake. I joined a group of eight people for a 3-hour hike up to the Yelcho Glacier. We were quite an international group of French, British, Chileans and me. It was a beautiful and warm day. But it was a forest walk along the river and the sun was not in the right place for good photos.

La Junta

The Carretera Austral is a 770-mile longitudinal road that was created beginning in 1976 by the Chilean military. The area from the Argentine border to the sea is seldom more than 100 miles and has been populated by a few hardy settlers who relied on reaching the outside world by horse or by boat until the Carretera was built. At times an environmental disaster that blasted through mountains and forests, it has since provided the means for more people to settle and create new towns. These people depend on raising livestock in the interior and on fishing and extraction of shellfish and seaweed along the uneven and extensive coastline. But the greatest economic boon has been tourism. Despite the fact that most of the road is a one-track gravel road, many people brave the challenges of travel by vehicle and bicycle. I previously posted photos in 2002 (Click here) and 2007 (Click here).

This year, after spending three weeks on the island of Chiloé, I traveled south by ship to the coastal village of Raúl Marín Balmaceda (previous post). After several lovely peaceful days I came inland to the Carretera Austral, stopping in the town of La Junta.

The 47 miles of gravel road follows the Palena River and takes about two hours by van with a bad rear axle.

The sky varied from torrential rains to glorious sunshine as we passed by impressive waterfalls large and small.

Having eaten only fish and shellfish for five days, it was obvious that there would now be red meat on the table as we passed by fields of livestock and humble farmhouses.

La Junta (pop. 3,600) means “The Meeting” or “Joining” and is where the Rosselot River joins the Palena in northern Patagonia. The town is a supply center for the surrounding countryside and has the only gas station for many miles north and south. There is phone and Internet service though the nearest ATM machine is about 200 miles away.

I found an upscale lodge (Hotel Espacio y Tiempo) with a well stocked bar and restaurant, one of very few places in Patagonia that accepts credit cards.

Unfortunately, I am reminded that a solo traveler without a vehicle is at the mercy of the occasional van that carries passengers. I had wanted to explore the northern part of the highway, but there is only one opportunity to reach Chaitén where I have a reservation on the Don Baldo north to Puerto Montt. The highway ends there and ship is the only way to continue. The public van leaves Friday morning at 6am.

Without a car there is little to do in La Junta. I’m always happy just walking the road north or south, or along the roads east and west to Lago Verde and Raúl Marín. Fortunately there is a great trail maintained by the national forestry service.







And when the rain becomes heavy, there is the refuge of my lodging where there is always a fire in the wood stove and a good Internet signal.