Currently considered to be the oldest civilization in the western hemisphere, the ruins of Caral are located about 125 miles north of Lima and about 15 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. The ancient site is in the large and lush Supe Valley where it narrows near the village of Caral. The site sits on an elevated plain with a commanding view of the valley. A pre-ceramic civilization flourished here from 3,000 B.C. until about 1,800 B.C., about the same period as in Mesopotamia.
Supe Valley
The valley extends for many miles and provides excellent conditions for growing many crops. The colectivo (shared taxi) bumped along the washboard unpaved road for almost an hour, passing large fields of sugar cane, corn, avocado, asparagus, beans and sweet potato. Most crops have been grown here for thousands of years, feeding the people of Caral then and now.
Irrigation ditch
The river flows from high in the Andes Mountains, but only for about six months of the year, providing ample water for domestic and agricultural use. In the other six months there is plenty of subterranean water, but it requires pumping to the surface, taxing the financial resources of the local people.
One of six pyramids on the plain above the Supe Valley. This the only complex which has been studied extensively. Nineteen others have been located around the valley in an area of about 35 square miles. To date, no evidence of warfare or human sacrifice has been found. Among the few artifacts discovered are flutes and trumpets made from bones of condor and other birds. Perhaps this was a gentle, peace loving people.
The pyramids were made of stone carried from the nearby mountains in woven sacks. The stones remained in the sacks as they were put in place, providing flexibility for absorbing seismic shocks in this earthquake prone country. And the vegetable material used provided carbon dating evidence of the ancient age of the pyramids. Mud provided mortar between the stones. The structures were not true pyramids, but were probably flat on the top.
The main structure covers an area of four football fields and is 60 feet high.
Amphitheater
The pyramids surround this structure. It appears that the entire area represented a ceremonial use, as homes and cemeteries were not uncovered. With the Supe Valley below providing food for everyone, the working people probably lived closer to the valley. As yet, many mysteries remain as to the daily life of the people.
My ride back to the village
The infrastructure is barely developing. I arrived by collectivo taking local people to the nearby village. The driver agreed to deliver me to the river, from where I had to walk over a mile to the site in sand under the burning sun. This young man brought me back to town where I found a colectivo to take me and nine others to the coast. Tourists generally arrive in rental cars or in commercial tours. I chose the folkloric route, always more interesting!
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