Caleta Inío

 The fishing village Inío (pop. 140) sits in a protected cove at the very southern tip of Chiloé Island. People began living here around 1980, drawn by the abundant stocks of shellfish and pelillo, a seaweed useful for industrial purposes. It is a common ingredient in shampoo and ice cream.

Pelillo drying on the beach

Lunch. Sea urchins, clams, cholgas (large mussels) and locos (similar to abalone). These were taken from the sea within the hour

There is no road to the village, and the only access is by sea from the town of Quellón. The regular fishing boats take about six hours each way. There is now a faster boat that makes the trip in under three hours, but can carry a few passengers and some supplies. My face was not so happy when we got out to the open sea, with large swells coming in from the Pacific Ocean.

La Puntilla. This sand spit protects the village across the bay, but is in a direct line for tidal waves. The 2011 tsunami from Japan damaged much of the area. In February 2012 there is a plan to move all the houses across the bay. This will be done in traditional chilote style. The houses will be prepared for transport, and then yokes of oxen will drag them to the water where they will be floated on logs across the bay. There, oxen (or possibly heavy machinery now in use to make a landing strip) will pull the houses to dry land for placement on newly cleared lots. The traditional event found throughout Chiloé is called a minga, and will be an occasion for abundant feasts and partying. (There are some mingas available to view on YouTube.)

 The entire west coast of Chiloé has sand beaches. The east coast, however, has no beaches, and the forest often comes right to the water’s edge.

Several caves have been formed along the coast, and many were used by the indigenous Chono people as a refuge from the weather, where they could stay relatively dry and make fire. Here our guide Fernando poses at the entrance to the largest cave in the area. Red lichen grows on the face of the rock, beginning the process of creating new earth.

Inío, looking southwest toward the Pacific Ocean. Small islands lay offshore.