Saturday, February 6, 2010

Chiloé Island, Castro and Quemchi

This is how you get to the big island of Chiloé from the Chilean mainland. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and about 3 of these ships are in constant use. I take a bus from Puerto Montt, arriving in Castro about 3-4 hours later, depending on the weather conditions.



Downtown Castro, not much to look at, but it has great charm. It mostly serves as a jumping off point to visit interesting places on the big island.

Here is the cathedral in Castro, built 1910-12 of native alerce wood.

Good food too. Those that know me have heard much about my gastronomic experiences in Chile. Here is a serving of pulmay, or curanto a la olla. It is served in one of the palafito restaurants on the waterfront.



Corn and watermelon are offered on the street in Castro, though are grown further north.

About one hour north of Castro is the town of Quemchi, birthplace of Francisco Coloane (1910-2002), one of Chile's great writers. He often returned to his home town to organize writing workshops for school children.



The church in Quemchi. The churches of Chiloé all represent an architecture introduced by Jesuits in previous centuries. All are made of native wood.

A kilo (2.2 lbs.) of fresh clams here cost about one US dollar. A splash of fresh lemon juice is all that is needed.



Heaven is a bowl of fresh clams.

Running a close second is a steaming bowl of carbonada, meat and vegetable stew.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Just heard about the quake in Chile and realize you're still there! Please drop a line when you can that you are safe.

Robin