Crucero Australis - Ainsworth Bay

January 13-14
After visiting much of Patagonia for the past few years, it is time to explore the myriad islands and channels that surround the big island of Tierra del Fuego, just south of the Straits of Magellan. The best way to do that is to book passage on Crucero Australis, an adventure cruise in these last points of land of the American continent. The company operates two ships that travel between the cities of Punta Arenas, Chile, and Ushuaia, Argentina. I chose the route from Punta Arenas, a four-night, three-day expedition which passes through seldom visited points around Tierra del Fuego, the southerly route which lands in Ushuaia. The ship offers first class service, including 64 cabins with private facilities and panoramic windows. It is 236 feet long, and includes two lounges and a dining room that serves gourmet meals. Small compared to the large cruise ships, Australis offers passengers a chance to disembark at selected points along the route to experience the natural features of the area. Guides are well informed about the history of the area and offer talks and guided tours. Their enthusiasm about the area makes the trip a joy to experience.

We sailed from Punta Arenas on a Tuesday evening, heading south in the Straits, then going into the Almirantazgo Sound. Our first chance to disembark was on the next morning to visit the Ainsworth Bay, which is the drainage of the Marinelli Glacier, a large receding mountain of snow and ice. We were able to walk through the beach and forest where the glacier had retreated. Note the chunks of ice floating in the bay.


From this swampy area covered by incipient plant life, we head toward the forest of Coigüe, Ñirre and Lenga.


Nadia poses in a mass of red chaura berry bushes. The fruit is juicy but not very sweet.


The three tree species are the most obvious flora to the eye. But soon we learn to look at the smaller treasures close to the ground, the so-called miniature forest. This includes mosses, lichens and hipatics. On this rock we observe the plant life which contributes to the making of new earth that will provide a foothold for larger plants.


We walked into a muddy area of the forest to observe this unusual grotto in an area of vertical stone walls covered in moss, dripping water into the ground. We stopped and listened to the forest sounds in silence. It became a spiritual moment of connection with the forest.


We observed a small condor perched high on the cliff. He was observing us with comparable curiosity.


Yolanda and Ricardo enjoying the muddy forest


I wish I could capture better quality when shooting glacier scenes. Snow, ice, and clouds all blend together in many photos.


We visited a small colony of elephant seals on a small island before returning to the ship, destination Tucker Island.