January 23, 2009
It was very cold last night, but with the right clothes and sleeping bag I slept quite well. For breakfast we ate leftover carbonada (meat and veggie stew) that was even more delicious warmed up than it was last night. We packed up our things and loaded the horses for the next leg, a ride over the Andes mountain range. By the time the Cordillera de los Andes reaches Tierra del Fuego, the mountains are not very high above sea level, with the tree line around 2,000 feet. After slicing the continent from north to south, the mountains take a turn on Tierra del Fuego from west to east. I still can't believe we rode up this steep and rocky trail. My horse, Truco, worked hard this day, choosing each step carefully. I let him make most of the choices. Occasionally he ventured too close to the cliff when it was wet, and I had to guide him closer to the mountain.
But we still have much to climb. Here is Jorge as we rest the horses for the next pull up the mountain.
Yes, this is the trail. The shale and scree were not quite as slippery as one might expect.
Almost there. The views are breathtaking. This is looking back to the northwest, with a view of Lake Fagnano where we began yesterday.
And this is the view south to the Beagle Channel. We are crossing the Andes here. Chilean Navarino Island is now visible across the Beagle Channel.
We stopped for lunch at "Rancho" Lata on the River Lata. The ranch is a simple gaucho shack on the edge of yet another castorera, beaver land. The marks are fresh, indicating recent activity. I don't care if I ever see another castorera.
We made camp on the Varela River. This is a choza that Jorge built previously. He and Fernando slept inside. I was in my tent nearby.
We had been carrying this half lamb carcass on the trail for 36 hours. It was time to heat the parrilla and cook the cordero fueguina. This is the most typical meal on the trail.
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