Achao 2025

 

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Achao 1965

Achao 2025

60 years ago, I visited the village of Achao on Quinchao Island in Chile. As I wandered about, I met a group of children playing and they cautiously agreed to pose for a photo, never having seen a camera or a tall gringo. 

Hace 60 años, fuí al pueblo de Achao en la isla Quinchao en Chile. Mientras andaba arriba del pueblo, encontré un grupo de niños jugando, Como nunca habían visto una máquina fotográfica ni un gringo, ellos cautelosamente estuvieron de acuerdo a posar para una foto,

In 2017, Javier Mansilla created the scene in an oil painting.

El pintor puertomontino Javier Mansilla recreó la escena en 2017

On March 6 2025, my friend Patricio Alarcón of Turismo Quehui kindly offered to take Javier and me to Isla Quinchao. We visited the museum in Curaco de Vélez, and then continued on to Achao, where we visited the historic church in Achao and the local museum. Javier had come here in recent years to track down the children in the photo, and had one contact in his FaceBook, the girl in the red dress. We called her phone and she enthusiastically invited us to visit her home, only a few blocks from where we were having lunch.

El día 6 de marzo de 2025, el amigo Patricio Alarcón de Turismo Quehui amablemente se ofreció a llevarnos a la isla Quinchao. Pasamos por el museo en Curaco de Vélez, y después seguimos rumbo a Achao, donde pasamos a la histórica iglesia y al museo regional. Javier había venido aquí en años recientes, buscando rastros de los niños de la foto, y tenía un contacto en su FaceBook, la niña de vestido rojo. La llamamos por teléfono y ella nos invitó con entusiasmo a su casa, apenas cuadras de donde almorzamos.

A reunion with the girl in the red dress was a happy event for all uf us. Gisela still lives in Achao with her husband. She served us tea and homemade bread and jam. Here is a short video of our visit.

Una reunión con la niña de vestido rojo fue un evento feliz para todos. Gisela aún vive en Achao con su marido. Nos sirvieron té y pan amasado con mermelada hecha en casa. Aquí está un corto video de la visita.

Roger, Gisela, and Javier

Achao 1965

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View of Achao on February 7, 1965 from the Cessna 4-seat airplane, traveling from Puerto Montt to the island of Chiiloé, Chile.

Vista aérea de Achao el 7 de febrero, 1965 desde el Cessna de 4 plazos, viajando de Puerto Montt a la isla de Chiloé, Chile.

It was a Friday morning, February 12, 1965 in Castro on the island of Chiloé, where I boarded a small, rural bus that took us to the town of Dalcahue. At the boat landing a small motor launch was waiting to take passengers across the narrow channel, a crossing of five or ten minutes to Quinchao Island. Another rural bus was waiting at the other side. Passing through gently rolling fields and small towns, we arrived at the end of the road in Achao, a village nestled in the green hills at the edge of the sea. All construction in the area is of local wood.

Un día viernes, 12 de febrero de 1965, desde Castro, en la isla grande de Chiloé, tomé una micro a Dalcahue. En la rampa frente el canal, nos esperaba una lancha a motor para cruzar el canal, que demora unos cinco o diez minutos para llegar a la Isla Quinchao. Bajando de la lancha al otro lado del canal, esperaba otra micro y subimos. Pasamos por el lindo paisaje de predios verdes entre pequeños pueblos. Al final del recorrido, nos encontramos en Achao, una pequeña aldea pintoresca encalada entre colinas verdes ubicada a la orilla del mar. Toda construcción en la zona es de madera.

It appears that the locals have not seen many tourists, especially a foreign-looking one, and curious eyes follow me everywhere. Women do not wear shoes, and most carry a black woolen shawl which they use to cover their head when it rains. I struck up a conversation with a farmer from a neighboring island. He tells me that the several surrounding islands are populated and cultivated. They produce their own necessities and a little to sell, but that the price of potatoes is low.

Parece que los lugareños no habían visto muchos turistas, ni menos un gringo norteamericano, y hay ojos que me persiguen dondequiera que vaya. Mujeres del pueblo andan descalzadas, la mayoría con un chal de lana negra, con que se cubre la cabeza cuando llueva. Me encontré con un vecino y nos pusimos a conversar. Me contó que reside en una isla cercana y que todas las islas del archipiélago están pobladas y cultivadas. Producen lo que necesitan para su familia y un poco para vender, aunque el precio de papas es muy bajo.

Walking along the dirt and gravel streets, I found the main plaza and a large, ancient church. It is the oldest church in Chile and was built by the Jesuits beginning in 1730. It looks in poor condition and in need of restoration. Inside, the ceiling is painted blue and white with ornate decorative wood carvings. An old altar remains, but a new one is installed that allows the priest to face the congregation according the recent decision of the Second Vatican Council.

Andaba por las calles de ripio y tierra, y frente la plaza de armas encontré una linda iglesia, la más antigua de Chile. Construida por los jesuitas a partir de 1730, se veía en mala condición y reclamaba por restauración. El techo adentro está pintado en azul y blanco, con decoración adornada de madera. El altar antiguo queda, pero uno nuevo se instaló según el Concilio Vaticano II, para que el sacerdote esté de cara a la congregación.

There are no restaurants in Achao, but I found a rooming house which offered lunch, a delicious mutton stew, about the only thing served in the region apart from fish and potatoes.

No hay restaurantes en Achao, pero encontré un hospedaje que me sirvió un almuerzo, una rica cazuela de cordero, casi lo único que se come acá aparte de pescado y papas.

The main mode of transportation on land is by horse and ox cart, although there were a few pickup trucks in town. A single-mast sloop, unique to the region, carries produce, people and animals between the islands. I watch as firewood is unloaded on to an oxcart on the beach. Another arrived recently with a flock of sheep which were delivered to the small wharf.

El principal modo de movilizarse en tierra es por caballo y carreta, aunque se veían algunas camionetas. Lanchas a vela llevan productos, personas y animales entre las islas. Veo una lancha descargando leña de una carreta de bueyes en la playa, y otra que recién llegó con un rebaño de ovejas, descargando por el pequeño muelle. 

It rained intermittingly all day, with some sun, which allowed me to wander around the town and up into the surrounding hills to get some good views of the town and the surrounding islands. There was a hazy view of the snow-covered Andes mountains in the distance. Walking up one hill, I encountered a group of eight children playing, all in their bare feet. They had two small wooden carts used for carrying firewood, and were enjoying playing in the open fields. They looked at me with great curiosity and wonder, and probably without ever having seen a camera or a tall gringo. Somehow, I convinced them to pose for a photo. The photo has become one of my favorites of the trip. I returned to the village several times since then, but in 2025 I met the little girl in the red dress. That story is in my next blog post.

Llovía a ratos por todo el día, con poco sol, lo que me permitía andar por el pueblo y más arriba en los cerros para disfrutar de una vista panorámica del pueblo y las cercanas islas. Apenas se veía la cordillera de los Andes con nieve en la distancia. Caminando por un cerro, me acercaran unos ocho niños jugando, todos a pata pelada. Tenían dos carretas para llevar leña que les servían de juguetes. Me miraban con caras de curiosidad y medio miedo, sin haber visto una cámara fotográfica ni un gringo alto andando solo por el campo. Les convencí a posar para una foto, que ha sido una foto preferida de mi viaje. Volví varias veces al pueblo tras los años, pero en 2025 conocí la niña de vestido rojo. Ese cuento aparece en el próximo post.

I returned to Castro for dinner of mutton stew. I lost seven escudos in the card game that evening.

Volví a Castro para una cena de cordero. Perdí siete escudos en un juego de cartas esa tarde.

Coyhaique, Chile

Panorama of the countryside around Coyhaique, a city of about 70,000 inhabitants in Chilean Patagonia. It was founded in 1929 at the confluence of the Simpson and Coyhaique Rivers. The highway, Carretera Austral, was built in 1980, linking it to the rest of the country. I first visited the town in early 1965, when there were only 4,000 inhabitants. I arrived by ship at the nearby port of Aysén. I was teaching in the Peace Corps further north in Valdivia.

Puerto Aysén, but this is not the ship I arrived on!

Coyhaique in 1965

I met these boys while walking on the road toward Argentina. They offered me a horse to return with them to town, as they doubled up on the two remaining saddles. The first photo above looks down on this road, now paved and lined with many homes and farms, almost 53 years later.

I hired a car and driver/guide to explore the gorgeous country around 6 Lagunas and the Simpson Valley, which I last visited in 2002. This is one of my favorite areas in Chilean Patagonia. Livestock ranching is about the only activity, as the soil is very shallow and doesn't support growing crops.

It's springtime and the lupines are blooming throughout the region.

Farm landscape near Lago Frío

Piedra Azul, Los Lagos, Chile: gateway to northern Patagonia

The small community of Piedra Azul includes several families who live along the shore of Relconcaví Sound near Puerto Montt in southern Chile. I spent a lovely afternoon with friends Gabriela and Javier at Gabriela's home. We first purchased two large fish fresh from the water.

The main house, just across the road near the shore

Our lunch will be a merluza (hake). Javier is an enthusiastic and experienced cook who will soon open his new cafe - restaurant in Puerto Montt.

Canela, about the happiest dog I have met in southern Chile

The beautiful countryside of Piedra Azul 

After lunch we set off to explore the property

Spectacular views of Seno de Reloncaví on the last day of summer 2014

Chepu, Chiloé, Chile

Home sweet home. This is just about my favorite destination in Chile, “Los Senderos de Chepu,” on the big island of Chiloé. It is by far the best-equipped B&B in Chepu to visit for a few hours or for several days, which is always my choice. The attraction is a gorgeous location in a quiet setting surrounded by gardens, pastures, forest, river and ocean. Rooms are comfortable and with modern conveniences. Outdoor activities abound, including fishing, hiking, horseback riding, visiting penguins, or my favorite, relaxation.

The beautiful garden is full of color year around

Chepu is not a village, but an area located a few miles southeast of Ancud on the island of Chiloé. Several families live here, spread over many miles. There is a bus that serves the area three times per week.

Country church

The locals have modern conveniences and vehicles, but the ox cart is most practical for transporting items on the farm, especially firewood that is needed daily.

The grass is always greener on the other side. I watched as this cow carefully removed his head from the barbed wire.

“Reduce, Recycle, Reuse”

Comanche and Mariachi

In the dunes; Chepu River is in the background

We must cross some wetlands to get to the beach

Don Fernando, my host and guide. Across the river to the south is the Chiloé National Park, on the west coast of the island.

This is our destination, Elephant Rock

Pacific Ocean at Aulen Beach

Lichens at the beach

View from above, near the main house, looking south toward Chiloé National Park

In the forest, I set off on a muddy path down to the river, about 30 minutes away. I brought rubber boots two years ago and leave them at the main house. It’s all I use outdoors. 

Ferns in the forest

The trail ends at the river. Many trees died in 1960 when southern Chile was hit with the largest earthquake ever recorded (Richter 9.5) The epicenter was near Valdivia to the north, but the land in many areas sank several feet, causing the river to widen, drowning trees. This is a great area for fishing and bird watching.

My wonderful hosts during many visits to Chepu in a photo from 2012: Señora Enriqueta, Don Fernando and daughter Vanesa, who is almost finished with her medical studies.