La Congona

One of the most impressive pre-Inca sites I visited in the Chachapoya area of the northeastern Andes Mountains is the mountaintop village of La Congona, named for the abundant congona plant that grows here. It has barely been studied or visited and is overgrown with thick vegetation. Experts say construction began around 1100 to 1350 a.d., then abandoned in the early Spanish colonial period in the 16th century. Today a farm is located close by with cows tramping through the underbrush, disturbing the area. There is no tourist infrastructure and it is physically challenging to arrive here.

My guide, Lázaro, provided a horse for me as he walked the entire 2-3 hours each way up and back on steep and rocky trails. We passed through the village of San Cristóbal and many cornfields. Most corn is left to dry in the fields. It's collected when dry, then soaked and boiled to provide delicious and nutritious food. The dry stalks provide sturdy poles for beans to grow. Squash plants cover the ground below.

At times the terrain is steep and rutted. People and animals regularly pass along such difficult places in the road. You can imagine what this is like in the rainy season.

After almost three hours of arduous climbing we arrive at a high ridge at about 9,300 feet elevation where the Chachapoya typically built their cities and fortresses. These locations were easier to defend from marauding hoards below.

In contrast to the Inca, who built rectangular structures, the Chachapoya houses are round, with rhomboid friezes. They even inserted large, flat stones that protrude from the structure and is thought they were exterior balconies.

Indiana Roger slashing through the jungle! This building has square corners, indicating Inca influence. The Inca conquered the Chachapoya in 1470, about 60 years before the Spanish arrived. So this structure is modern (!), probably erected in late 15th century.

After a tasty picnic lunch it's time to saddle up and head down the mountain.

This narrow ridge is only about 10 feet wide, with a steep drop off to several hundred feet below on both sides. The venerable Chachapoya ancestors and gods have blessed us with beautiful weather for many days now, with just a small amount of rain occasionally at night.

The final descent after about two grueling hours brings us to this panoramic view of Leymebamba. Even after riding on horseback my body feels battered but invigorated at the end of the trip.