Kuélap

The Chachapoya culture flourished on the northeastern flank of the Peruvian Andes from about 750 AD until conquered by the Inka culture in 1470, about 60 years before the arrival of the Spaniards. Archeological evidence is found over a large area high above the Utcubamba River which drains into the Marañon and on to the Amazon River. Only in the past 30 years has significant study been done on the many sites in the area of Leymebamba.

I had the great opportunity to visit Kuélap, a walled city/fortress perched on a mountain top at 3,000 meters (9,842 feet) above sea level. My photos cannot show the complete extension of the city which contains about 17 acres. It is 600 meters (2,000 feet) long and 110 meters (361 feet) wide. The wall varies in height from 5 to 20 meters (16-65 feet).

The Inka referred to the Chachapoya as "people of the clouds." The area is often shrouded in clouds of  fog and mist that develops from the moisture in the ground. Since the Inka ruled the Chachapoya for about 60 years, there are some Inka architectural features at Kuélap.

One of three entrances to the citadel, looking from inside the walls

The Chachapoya built their houses in a circular shape, with a thatched conical roof. This is a reconstruction, based on one example that was discovered. About 500 circular foundations have been found in the city. Each would house a family.

This is the remains of the interior of one house, showing the cooking platform and mortar and pestle for grinding corn. The chamber where you see an opening is thought to be where the live cuy were kept. Cuy is the Andean guinea pig that has provided protein for thousands of years and is still a staple in the mountains.

This is a circular lookout tower at the north end of the city with a view that would show any invading armies. The structures at Kuélap contain the stones exactly as placed many hundreds of years ago. There is no attempt at reconstruction. In some places some mortar is being injected between stones to stabilize the structure. Having analyzed the ancient mortar, it's possible to replicate the exact ingredients.

Bromeliads abound in the trees here. So do orchids, but they are not blooming now. The trees and other vegetation are being cleared from the city to allow for better study of the ruins. The area surrounding the city is also being cleared of vegetation because there is evidence of more ruins, though they haven't yet been studied or even uncovered.

Typical Chachapoya frieze, probably representing the serpent. The design is commonly used today, painted on the exterior of many houses in the region. The frieze is made of stone, not painted.

This structure is thought to serve ceremonial purposes. It is in the shape of a kero, or ceremonial drinking cup.

Some of the stones have curious carvings of animals, many thought to be sacred to the Chachapoya. This shows the head of a monkey.

Here is a commonly found design with features of the condor and the jaguar, both sacred to the Chachapoya.

This is another interior of a house. In some houses is appears that deceased family members were wrapped in a mummy bundle with linens and deposited in a chamber in the house.

Note the red bromeliads in the tree at left. My guide Adán lives in the house just below the ruins. He explained that his work is more in conservation, and occasionally he serves as a guide.

The underside of the hortiga flower. From above it looks rather common. Adán held it upside down for this photo.