Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Santiago, Chile: then and now - 1964/2014

The first trip I made to this wonderful South American country was in September, 1964, fresh out of college and eager to step into my role as a Peace Corps volunteer in Valdivia, Chile. I arrived with a group of like minded gringos, with about 25 words in my vocabulary. Walking around the city this week, I suddenly realized that it was 50 years ago (well, less a few months). This morning I was having a coffee at an outdoor cafe, when I looked up and thought the nearby building looked familiar. So I snapped a photo and later compared it with one from 1964. It was the same building! So I took two more photos that show roughly the same views as in my old pictures.


Parque Forestal 1964

My brother-in-law Rich gave me one of his cameras, an Argus C3. Color film was expensive in those days, especially for a Peace Corps volunteer, so I took photos sparingly.


Parque Forestal 2014


Río Mapocho 1964

The Mapocho River cuts right through Santiago. San Cristóbal mountain is in the background. If you look closely at the political graffiti, you will see a poem by Pablo Neruda:

Quiero saber quien eres
cuanto ganas,
en que taller trabajas
en que minas,
en que farmacia...
     ya llega el día
ven con todos los que a ti se parecen
los mas sencillos,
ven, no sufras
por que ganaremos, nosotros
los mas sencillos GANAREMOS
     Pablo Neruda

I want to know who you are
how much you earn
in which factory you work
in which mines,
in which pharmacy...
     now the day arrives
come with all those who look like you
the most simple,
come, do not suffer
because we will win, we
the most simple (people) WILL WIN
     Pablo Neruda

Well, senator Salvador Allende lost the election that year to Eduardo Frei. It was the second time he had run for the office. But on his third try he won in 1970. Neruda was one of his strongest supporters. Allende was deposed in the coup of 1973.


Río Mapocho 2014

Not the same location as above, but near by. I visited Neruda's home "La Chascona" today, in the Bellavista district, a short walk toward the mountain.


Universidad Católica 1964
Taken from Santa Lucía Hill, near the city center


Universidad Católica 2014
There might be less smog today

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